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The truth about free range poultry and eggs
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Just how free-range is free-range?

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Food Articles


Details: Written April 2006, by Rachel Cummins...

For many people the most important factor to consider when eating meat and dairy products is the quality of life that the animal has had. Free-range products offer the consumer the chance to enjoy meat and dairy with a clearer conscience. But just what does ‘free-range’ mean? Rachel Cummins sorts the barn birds and from the chilled out chickens.

When we buy free-range eggs or birds, we feel much better about ourselves, imagining them clucking about with loads of room in fields of green. But does free-range really mean that they have a decent life? Let’s see if we can make some sense out of a whole load of confusing information…

According to DEFRA, for a bird to be considered free-range, it must “… have had during at least half [it’s] lifetime continuous daytime access to open-air runs, comprising an area mainly covered by vegetation, of not less than:
· 1m² per chicken or guinea fowl
· 2m² per duck
· 4m² per turkey or goose.”
Not all that great, we’re sure you’ll agree. They go on to say, “the feed formula used in the fattening stage contains at least 70% of cereals, and the poultry house must also be provided with pop holes of a combined length at least equal to 4 m per 100m² floor space of the house.” They do also specify minimum life spans (ranging from 49 days for a Peking duck, to 112 days for geese) and maximum number of birds per stock house.

All this amounts to a better life than that of a bird that is not free-range, but we were surprised that the space is quite so low (1 square metre for chickens), bearing in mind that it only states the bird has to have access to this space for half of it’s lifetime.

Onto eggs then. Here are the facts on minimum space requirements and more for egg laying birds taken from the DEFRA website:
“Caged: Since 2003, minimum 750cm square per bird along with a nest, perching space at 15cm/bird and a scratching area.
Barn: Maximum stocking density 9 birds per square metre and there must be at least 250cm square of litter area/bird. Perches for the birds must be installed to allow 15 cm of perch per hen. There must be one nest for every 7 birds or 1 square metre of nest space for every 120 birds.

Free-range: Free-range birds are housed as described in the Barn system above. In addition birds must have continuous daytime access to open runs which are mainly covered with vegetation and with a maximum stocking density of 2,500 birds per hectare [10,000 square metres, which equates to 4 square metres each approximately].
In all systems the birds must be inspected at least once a day. At the end of each laying period the respective houses are completely cleared and disinfected.

Organic: Similar to those of free range however the guidelines for the birds and their feed are more stringent. The pullets must be raised by certified organic production methods from birth. The layers are required to have outdoor access all year round, or be fed sprouted grains for the period when indoors and all feed must be certified organic. No antibiotics or meat by-products are allowed in the feed and each bird is required to have 2 square feet of floor space.”
So, they are the official figures on the classification minimums. It seems to us strange that a free-range bird bred for meat has considerably less space than a bird bred for eggs, namely 1 square metre to 4 square metres respectively. Not clear on the reasoning for this.

All these figures paint a depressing picture of the life of a farmed bird, even if it is ‘lucky’ enough to be organic. Hugh Fearnley Whitttingstall in his book, the River Cottage Cookbook (2001, Harper Collins), cites even more injustices to add to the list of pains that ‘free-range’ birds must endure:
“Free-range layers can also legally be subjected to long periods under artificial light to increase their productivity; they can be routinely de-beaked (beaks are clipped to prevent stressed and frightened birds damaging other stressed and frightened birds); they may be fed as inappropriately as any battery hen; and then their feed will often include a yellow dye to give the yolks that ‘free-range’ look.”

A sorry state of affairs, I’m sure you’ll agree.
So, what is the best option in terms of buying labelled eggs? Enter 'Traditional Free Range' and 'Free Range - Total Freedom'. DEFRA describes the difference between free-range and the latter two classifications as follows: “Traditional Free Range' [birds] require… more extensive open-air access, a lower stocking density, and a greater minimum age at slaughter. 'Free Range - Total Freedom' has similar requirements, but birds must have unrestricted daytime open-air access.”

Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall offers further options: RSPCA’s Freedom Food label (though de-beaking is allowed under this classification, but ultimately, of all labelled eggs, he champions the organic certification:
“Organic bodies such as the Soil Association far outstrip those of any other label… insist[ing], among other things, on sensible rates of stocking, fully organic cereal-based feeds and no de-beaking.”

In summary, it seems that birds aren’t quite having the joyous life as members of the free-range club as some of us thought they were. The best option? Get your poultry and eggs from a local supplier who can guarantee their heath and happiness. Not possible? Then go for the best organic certification eggs that you can lay, I mean, get your hands on!

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Free-range poultry: chickens, ducks, geese and turkeys | Free-range meats at your local Farmers' Market



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